Journal entry N° 09
Super 110s to 180s: What the Numbers Mean
The most quoted figure in suiting, and the most misunderstood. Here is what the Super number tells you, and what it doesn't.
Super 120s, Super 150s, Super 180s: the number printed on the edge of a cloth is the figure clients ask about most, and the one that is most often misread.
Here is what Super 120s vs 150s really tells you, where the numbers came from, and how to choose the right one for the way you will wear the suit.
IThe measure
A number for fineness
The Super number describes how fine the wool fibres in a cloth are. The higher the number, the finer the fibre. Under the International Wool Textile Organisation's code, a Super 100s wool must have an average fibre diameter of 18.75 microns or finer, and each step of ten takes off another half a micron.
A micron is a thousandth of a millimetre, so even the coarsest Super wool is many times finer than a human hair.
It measures the fibre, not the finished cloth. Two Super 150s fabrics can feel completely different depending on their weight, weave and finish.
IIThe origin
From Bradford to the micron
The numbers grew out of the worsted count used in the Bradford wool trade: how many 560-yard hanks of yarn a single pound of wool could be spun into. Finer wool spun further, so it earned a higher count.
English mills later began labelling their best cloths Super 100s and above, and the names spread long before there was a shared standard behind them. Today each grade is tied to a measured fibre diameter, and labelling law in markets such as the United States follows the same table.
IIIThe scale
Super 110s to 180s
| Grade | Microns | Feel | In wear | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Super 110s and 120s | 18.25 / 17.75 | Firm and crisp | Holds its shape and a crease | Everyday and office wear |
| Super 130s and 140s | 17.25 / 16.75 | Softer and smoother | A balance of comfort and durability | Regular wear with more refinement |
| Super 150s and 160s | 16.25 / 15.75 | Very soft and fluid | More delicate; creases more easily | Weddings and special occasions |
| Super 170s and 180s | 15.25 / 14.75 | Exceptionally fine | Needs careful wear and rest between days | Occasional wear |
Swipe to compare →
The micron figures are the limits for each grade: the average fibre in the cloth must be this fine or finer.
IVThe trade-off
Finer is not always better
Finer fibres make a softer, lighter cloth, but they give up some resilience. A very fine wool can wear faster, crease more readily and lose its crispness over a long day.
In its favour
- A softer handle
- A lighter, more fluid drape
- At the very top of the scale, a feel close to cashmere
Worth knowing
- More delicate, so it wears faster with daily use
- Creases more readily
- Costs more, because very fine wool is rarer
Construction helps. A denser weave or a high-twist yarn lets a fine wool hold its shape and last longer.
Choose the number for the life you'll give the suit, not for the label.
The ŠAKAL Atelier
VIn the heat
What matters in Singapore
A higher Super number does not make a suit cooler on its own. In our climate, the weight of the cloth and how openly it is woven make a bigger difference to how a suit breathes.
A lightweight Super 110s or 120s in an open weave will often wear cooler, and last longer, than a heavy Super 150s. Our fabric guide covers the other cloths that work well in the heat.
VIChoosing
Matching the number to the wear
If you'll wear it every week
Super 110s to 130s. Hard-wearing, slow to crease and comfortable: the right workhorse for the office.
If it's for a wedding or a milestone
Super 150s and above. The softness and drape show at their best on a day you'll remember, on a suit that won't see daily wear.
If you want both
Super 130s to 140s sits in between: noticeably softer, and still sensible for regular wear.
For our finest cloths, such as Scabal's Super 160s, we recommend full canvas construction, so what is inside the jacket matches the cloth outside it. Browse the mills we carry in our fabric brands guide.
VIIQuestions
What clients ask us
What does Super 120s mean?
That the wool fibres in the cloth have an average diameter of 17.75 microns or finer. It measures how fine the fibre is, not the weight or the overall quality of the cloth.
Is Super 150s better than Super 120s?
It is finer and softer, not automatically better. Super 120s is more durable and holds a crease better, so it often suits everyday wear; Super 150s comes into its own for occasions.
Which Super number is best for Singapore's weather?
The number matters less than the weight and weave of the cloth. A lightweight, openly woven Super 110s to 130s is a cool, practical choice for daily wear.
Does a higher Super number cost more?
Usually, yes. Very fine wool is rarer and harder to spin and weave. We'll show you options across the range at your consultation.
The difference between Super 120s and Super 150s is easiest to understand with both in your hands. Visit the atelier and we'll lay the bunches side by side.
— Šakal Atelier · Singapore
