The breast pocket cut and curved like the hull of a little boat — barchetta, in Italian. A gentle upward sweep, shaped by hand. The Neapolitan answer to the straight, rigid welt.
Curved Welt
Hand Shaped
Welt Length
Neapolitan tailoring is defined by softness — light construction, unpadded shoulders, a jacket that moves with the body. That same spirit reaches the breast pocket. Instead of a straight, severe welt, the barchetta curves gently upward at its ends, like the hull of a small boat. The name says exactly what it is: barchetta, ‘little boat.’
The curve is subtle — a few millimetres of rise — but it changes the whole character of the chest. It is softer, more relaxed, unmistakably hand-made. Set above a soft shoulder and a rolling lapel, it completes the southern Italian silhouette.
On our softer, Neapolitan-inspired jackets, the breast pocket is shaped by hand into a barchetta.
Marketing the Curve
The gentle boat shape is drawn by hand onto the chest, its rise judged to suit the cloth and the cut.
Cutting on the Curve
The pocket opening is cut along that curve — not the straight line of a standard welt — leaving no room for error.
Matching the Cloth
On stripes and checks, the pattern is aligned so it flows from the body cloth through the curved welt without a break.
Set and Pressed
The welt is sewn and pressed by hand to hold its soft, upward sweep cleanly against the chest.
The barchetta is a small thing done carefully — a curve that must be even, a pattern that must line up, a welt that must sit flat without losing its shape.
Done well, it reads as effortless. That ease is the whole point of the Neapolitan hand.
A gentle upward sweep at the points — the signature of the form.
The chest pocket alone — never the hip pockets below.
Stripes and checks carried cleanly through the curved welt.
The soft, hand-driven school of southern Italian tailoring.
STRAIGHT WELT
BARCHETTA · ŠAKAL
ŠAKAL ATELIER | SINGAPORE
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