Care for your Bespoke Garment

A bespoke garment from Sakal is a lifetime investment. Treated with the same attention that shaped it, it will age with distinction — improving in character and drape with every wearing. This guide sets out everything you need to know.

24h

Minimum rest between wears for any fine wool or structured garment

2X

Yearly dry-clean maximum — over-cleaning degrades canvas and fibre

1ST

Rule of bespoke care — always use a shaped hanger, never a wire one

Care for your Bespoke Garment

A bespoke garment from Sakal is a lifetime investment. Treated with the same attention that shaped it, it will age with distinction — improving in character and drape with every wearing. This guide sets out everything you need to know.

24h

Minimum rest between wears for any fine wool or structured garment

2X

Yearly dry-clean maximum — over-cleaning degrades canvas and fibre

1ST

Rule of bespoke care — always use a shaped hanger, never a wire one

SUIT CARE

The Suit

At Sakal, every piece is crafted with precision, heritage, and respect for fine materials. Proper care will ensure your bespoke garments maintain their shape, drape, and character for years to come. Below is our recommended care guide for shirts, suits, trousers, and other tailored essentials.

After Every Wear

Brush gently with a soft clothes brush along the grain. Empty pockets. Hang immediately on a wide, shaped wooden hanger.

24-Hour Rule

Allow your suit jacket to rest for a minimum of 24 hours between wears. The wool needs time to breathe and the canvas to recover its shape.

Dry Clean Sparingly

Minimum rest between wears for any fine wool or structured garment

Never Fold the Jacket

Do not fold a structured jacket for storage or travel. Use a suit bag or roll method with padding for travel.

Daily Maintenance

Routine care prevents the need for cleaning.

  • Brush with a soft natural-bristle cloth brush after every wear — always brush in the direction of the fabric pile
  • Hang on a wide, shaped hanger (wood or padded) immediately after removing
  • Allow the garment to air in a well-ventilated room for at least one hour before storing
  • Empty all pockets to prevent stress on seams and lining
  • Use cedar blocks or sachets in your wardrobe to deter moths — never use mothballs directly on garments

Storage

Correct storage preserves the garment’s shape and life.

  • Store in a breathable cotton or linen garment bag — never in sealed plastic
  • Allow adequate space between garments to prevent crushing
  • Store in a cool, dark, dry location away from direct sunlight
  • For long-term storage, stuff the chest with acid-free tissue paper to retain the breast shape
  • If travelling, use a garment bag with a fold-down hanger — fold once only, along the trouser crease

Note: Humidity accelerates fabric degradation. In Singapore’s climate, ensure your wardrobe is climate-controlled or at least well-ventilated.

Steaming

The preferred method for removing light creases and refreshing the fabric.

  • Use a handheld garment steamer held 10–15cm from the fabric surface
  • Move in slow, consistent strokes — do not hold the steamer in one place
  • Never steam directly onto a structured lapel or chest canvas — steam the reverse side or use a pressing cloth
  • Allow the garment to dry completely (20–30 min) before wearing or storing
  • Steam is also effective at neutralising light odours without dry cleaning

Cleaning

Dry clean sparingly — over-cleaning is the most common cause of premature wear.

  • For spot stains, act quickly: blot (do not rub) with a clean damp cloth and allow to dry naturally
  • Use a professional dry cleaner experienced with structured bespoke garments
  • Inform your dry cleaner of the fabric type and any specific concerns
  • Request a low-heat, hand-finished press — machine pressing can flatten the canvas
  • Never dry clean the jacket and trousers separately — always clean the full suit together to preserve colour consistency

Drying

A wet bespoke garment must be handled with care to prevent permanent damage.

  • If caught in rain, shake off excess water and hang on a wide hanger to dry naturally at room temperature
  • Never tumble dry or use a heated dryer — heat shrinks wool and can permanently distort the canvas
  • Never dry near a radiator, heater, or in direct sunlight — uneven heat causes shrinkage and colour fade
  • Allow the garment to dry completely before brushing or storing — a damp garment encourages mildew

Ironing

Ironing a bespoke suit incorrectly can cause irreversible damage. Steam is always preferred.

  • Always use a damp pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric
  • Use a low to medium heat setting appropriate to the fabric (wool: medium; linen: medium-high)
  • Never iron over the chest canvas, lapel roll, or padded shoulders — these are shaped by hand and cannot be restored once flattened
  • Press trousers along the natural crease line only
  • Lift the iron rather than pushing or dragging to avoid disturbing the weave
 

When in doubt: Steam over iron. Pressing cloth always. A professional finisher for structured pieces.

Always

  • Hang on a wide, shaped wooden hanger immediately after wearing
  • Brush along the grain after every wear
  • Allow 24 hours of rest between wears
  • Store in a breathable garment bag
  • Use steam to freshen and remove light creases
  • Keep cedar accessories in your wardrobe
  • Dry clean jacket and trousers together
  • Use a pressing cloth when ironing

Never

  • Hang on wire or narrow hangers
  • Fold a structured jacket for regular storage
  • Dry clean more than twice a year
  • Store in sealed plastic bags
  • Iron directly on lapels or chest canvas
  • Tumble dry or dry near a heat source
  • Leave damp or wet garments folded
  • Rub a stain — always blot only

SHIRT CARE

The Shirt

A bespoke shirt is crafted with finer construction than any ready-made equivalent — felled seams, hand-stitched collar, and precisely attached buttons that require care to preserve. Unlike structured outerwear, shirts must be washed regularly, making the method of cleaning and pressing critically important.

Washing Frequency

Wash after every wear. Natural fibres — cotton, linen — hold perspiration and body oils that degrade the fabric if left.

Cold or Lukewarm Water

Hot water causes shrinkage and weakens the fibres of fine cotton and linen over time. Wash at 30°C or below.

Button Care

Fasten all buttons before washing — this prevents the collar from distorting. Never pull a button free — if loose, have it re-stitched.

Washing

  • Machine wash on a gentle/delicate cycle at 30°C — cold water preserves colour and fibre integrity
  • Use a gentle, pH-neutral detergent — avoid detergents with optical brighteners on coloured or patterned shirts
  • Fasten all buttons before washing to preserve collar shape
  • Wash inside-out to protect the outer surface of the fabric
  • For silk or silk-blend shirts, hand wash in cool water only — never machine wash
  • Separate light and dark garments — even fine cotton can bleed in warm water

Drying

  • Remove from the machine promptly — leaving a wet shirt in a drum causes deep creasing that is difficult to press out
  • Hang on a shirt hanger to air dry — button the collar button to retain the collar’s shape as it dries
  • Dry in a ventilated area out of direct sunlight — UV exposure fades colour and weakens cotton fibres
  • Do not tumble dry bespoke shirts — heat causes shrinkage and weakens collar interlining
  • For linen shirts, light creasing during drying is natural and expected — it is part of the character of the fabric

Ironing

  • Iron while the shirt is still slightly damp for the best result — or use a spray bottle to dampen dry shirts before pressing
  • Begin with the collar: iron the underside first, then the outer surface, working from the collar points inward to avoid creasing the tips
  • Press the cuffs flat (not rounded), then work along the sleeves
  • Iron the body last — front placket, then back panels, then front panels
  • Use medium heat for cotton; low heat for silk; medium-high for linen
  • Always iron the reverse side of fine white cotton — direct ironing can cause a slight sheen

Collar & Cuff Care

  • The collar and cuffs are the highest-wear areas of any shirt — inspect them regularly
  • Pre-treat collar and cuff areas with a gentle stain remover or a small amount of liquid detergent before washing if body oil is present
  • Avoid folding a freshly laundered shirt at the collar — hang it immediately
  • Collar stays (if supplied) should be removed before washing and re-inserted after ironing

Storage

  • Hang laundered shirts on shirt hangers — folding freshly pressed shirts causes creasing at the fold line
  • If folding is necessary (travel), fold along natural seam lines and place flat — do not stack more than three shirts
  • Store in a cool, dry environment — silk shirts in particular are sensitive to heat and humidity
  • Ensure shirts are completely dry before storing — damp storage promotes mildew

Stain Treatment

  • Act immediately — the sooner a stain is treated, the higher the chance of full removal
  • Blot (never rub) to absorb as much of the stain as possible before treating
  • For oil-based stains: apply a small amount of dishwashing liquid, leave for 5 minutes, then rinse with cold water
  • For wine or tannin stains: cold water and salt immediately, then wash as normal
  • For stubborn or set stains, take the shirt to a professional laundry before washing at home — home washing can set a stain permanently

Avoid bleach on all bespoke shirts — even on white cotton. Bleach degrades fibre and yellows fabric over time.

Always

  • Fasten buttons before washing
  • Wash at 30°C or below
  • Hang to air dry on a shirt hanger
  • Iron while slightly damp
  • Start ironing with collar points inward
  • Pre-treat collar and cuffs before washing

Never

  • Tumble dry any bespoke shirt
  • Use bleach on any shirt
  • Iron in circular motions — always straight strokes
  • Leave wet shirts in the drum
  • Dry in direct sunlight
  • Machine wash silk or silk-blend shirts

TROUSER CARE

The Trousers

Bespoke trousers are shaped to your body with a carefully constructed seat, thigh, and crease line. The crease — pressed into the front of the trouser leg — is one of the defining marks of a well-cared-for garment. Maintaining it, along with the seat and knee, requires consistent attention.

The Trouser Press

A trouser press is an excellent investment for maintaining the front crease between wears. Use it overnight after wearing.

Hang, Don't Fold

Hang trousers by the waistband on a trouser hanger or drape over a bar hanger along the crease — never fold and place on a shelf.

Seat Care

The seat area wears fastest. Avoid sitting on rough surfaces; when possible, remove the jacket before sitting for extended periods.

Daily Maintenance

  • Hang on a trouser hanger immediately after wearing — clip-hanger at the hem or drape bar hanger along the crease line
  • Brush lightly to remove surface dust and fibres
  • Allow to air before hanging in the wardrobe
  • Check the waistband and seat for signs of wear or stress on seams
  • Rotate between two or more pairs of trousers where possible

Pressing the Crease

  • The front crease is the spine of a well-dressed trouser — maintain it with a pressing cloth and medium iron heat
  • Lay the trouser flat with the legs aligned precisely — ensure the crease runs from the waistband to the hem in a single straight line
  • Use a damp pressing cloth over the crease and press firmly — lift the iron rather than sliding
  • Steam the seat area gently from the inside to release creasing without flattening the fabric
  • Allow to cool before wearing or re-hanging

Cleaning

  • Dry clean with the jacket as a matched pair — never separately
  • For casual cotton or linen trousers: gentle machine wash at 30°C, hung to air dry
  • Spot clean small marks promptly by blotting with a damp cloth
  • Avoid frequent dry cleaning — it weakens the fabric’s fibres over time

Drying

  • Always air dry on a hanger — hanging by the waistband allows the trouser to drop and self-straighten as it dries
  • Never tumble dry structured wool trousers
  • Dry away from direct sunlight and heat sources
  • For wet trousers (rain), shake out, re-press the crease lightly while damp, and hang to dry naturally

Storage

  • Hang on a dedicated trouser hanger — either a clip-hanger at the hem, or a bar hanger draped along the crease fold
  • Store upright in the wardrobe with adequate spacing — do not fold and stack
  • For long-term storage of seasonal trousers, fold along the crease with tissue paper between folds to prevent permanent lines
  • Store in a breathable bag to protect from dust and moths

Ironing

  • Always use a pressing cloth — direct ironing on fine wool causes shine (a permanent, undesirable glazing effect)
  • Iron at medium heat for wool blends; higher heat with a damp cloth for linen
  • Work in sections: waistband, seat (inside out), then each leg individually
  • When pressing the legs, align the inseam and outseam precisely before pressing the front crease
  • Do not iron over the turn-ups (cuffs) directly — steam them from the inside to preserve their shape

Iron shine on dark wool trousers is permanent. Always use a pressing cloth — no exceptions.

CARE BY FABRICATION

Fabric-Specific Care

Different fibres demand different handling. What is appropriate for a robust linen cloth may damage a delicate cashmere blend. Understanding your garment’s fabric is the foundation of correct care.

Know Your Cloth

Your Sakal garment will have a care label indicating the fabric composition. Refer to this first. If in doubt, contact us.

Finer = More Delicate

As a general rule, the finer the fibre (higher Super number in wool, lighter weight linen), the more gentle the care required.

Blends

Fabric blends (e.g. wool-silk, linen-cotton) should be cared for according to the most delicate fibre in the blend.

CARE BY FABRIC TYPE

WOOL

Wool & Worsted Wool

  • Dry clean only — no wet washing for structured garments
  • Brush after every wear; air between wears on a shaped hanger
  • Steam lightly to remove creases and refresh
  • Medium iron heat with a damp pressing cloth only
  • Store in a breathable garment bag with cedar accessories
  • Avoid direct sunlight — UV causes colour fade and fibre weakening
  • Fine Super 130s–180s wools require extra-gentle handling — they pill more easily than coarser weaves

CASHMERE

Cashmere & Cashmere Blends

  • Dry clean only for cashmere garments — or hand wash very gently in cold water with a cashmere-specific detergent
  • Never wring or twist — press between towels to remove excess water
  • Dry flat on a clean towel, away from heat and sunlight — never hang a wet cashmere garment as it will distort under its own weight
  • Use a fine-tooth cashmere comb to remove pilling gently
  • Store folded (not hung) in a sealed bag during off-season to protect from moths
  • Never steam at high temperature — use low steam or a cool iron with pressing cloth

LINEN

Linen

  • Linen is highly breathable and more forgiving than wool — gentle machine wash at 30°C is often acceptable for unstructured pieces
  • Structured linen blazers and jackets should still be dry cleaned
  • Linen creases readily — this is a characteristic of the fabric, not a flaw
  • Press with a hot iron and damp pressing cloth on the reverse side for a smooth finish; or embrace the natural crease for a relaxed aesthetic
  • Air dry hanging — linen dries quickly and benefits from the weight of gravity when drying
  • Do not use a fabric softener — it diminishes the natural structure of linen

COTTON

Cotton & Cotton Blends

  • Shirts: machine wash at 30°C, gentle cycle, air dry on a hanger
  • Structured cotton garments (jackets, trousers): dry clean only
  • Iron while damp at medium-high temperature — cotton responds exceptionally well to pressing
  • White cotton should be washed separately; avoid tumble drying to prevent yellowing
  • High-count cotton (100s and above) should be treated as gently as fine wool — cool wash, no tumble dry
  • Pre-treat collar and cuff stains before washing

SILK

Silk & Silk Blends

  • Hand wash only in cool water with silk-specific detergent — never machine wash
  • Never wring — roll in a clean towel to remove excess moisture
  • Dry flat or on a padded hanger away from direct sunlight — UV yellows silk rapidly
  • Press on the reverse side with a cool iron — never apply steam directly to silk as it can cause water spotting
  • Silk garments are best stored away from light in a breathable cotton cover
  • Silk-wool blends should be treated as pure silk for care purposes

DENIM

Denim

  • Wash infrequently — denim improves with wear and develops character over time
  • Cold machine wash, inside-out, on a gentle cycle
  • Air dry flat or hang — avoid tumble dryer which fades denim and weakens the weave
  • Never bleach or use harsh detergents
  • Iron on reverse side at medium heat if needed — denim can typically be steamed directly on the outside
  • Structured denim jackets should be dry cleaned to preserve shape

TWEET

Tweed & Harris Tweed

  • Dry clean only — tweed is a robust woven cloth but wet washing distorts the weave structure
  • Brush vigorously after outdoor wear to remove dust, pollen, and debris
  • Tweed is highly moisture-absorbent — if wet, hang to dry naturally in good airflow
  • Press with a damp cloth at medium heat — tweed tolerates pressing well but benefits from a pressing cloth
  • Store on a wide hanger — tweed is heavier than most cloths and a narrow hanger will cause shoulder distortion over time

VELVET

Velvet & Velvet Blends

  • Professional dry clean only — never attempt home wet or steam cleaning on velvet pile
  • Brush gently with a soft velvet brush in the direction of the pile after wearing
  • Never iron velvet — heat crushes the pile permanently
  • To restore flattened pile: hold briefly over steam (not in contact with steam) and brush gently in pile direction
  • Store hanging with ample space — crushing velvet pile, even against other garments, can mark the surface
  • Handle minimally — the natural oils in hands can mark velvet pile

A bespoke atelier above the shophouses of Haji Lane, where every garment begins with a conversation and ends with a silhouette made only for you

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