Rows of tiny hand stitches set a few millimetres from the edge of the lapel, the pockets, the front. Decorative now, functional once — and placed with a living, irregular rhythm that no machine can imitate.
From the Edge
By Hand
Stitching per Jacket
Before fusing and modern interlinings, pick stitching held the layers of a lapel and an edge together. It was structure. Today it is largely decorative — a fine, beaded line that frames the edges of a jacket and signals the hand that made it.
Neapolitan tailors call it punto a spillo, ‘pin-point stitch.’ A machine, the AMF, was built decades ago to imitate it, and its stitching is everywhere now: perfectly, mechanically even. True hand pick stitching is different. Its spacing is consistent but subtly irregular — alive — and almost nothing shows on the reverse of the cloth.
At Sakal, the edges that matter are picked by hand — the slight irregularity is the point.
Marking the Line
A guideline is set a few millimetres in from the edge, parallel and even, to follow the lapel, the pockets and the front.
The Single Stitch
The needle picks up only a few threads of the cloth, so the stitch sits as a tiny bead on the face and barely registers beneath.
A Living Rhythm
Stitch by stitch, the spacing is kept even — yet carries the faint irregularity of the hand, the opposite of machine precision.
The Finished Edge
The result is a fine, raised line of points that defines the lapel and pockets and quietly catches the light.
Pick stitching lives in restraint. Too heavy and it shouts; too far from the edge and it loses its purpose. Judged by hand, in fine silk, it should be noticed only on a second look.
The tell is always the same — a subtle unevenness that proves a person, not a machine, set every stitch.
Tonal or quietly contrasting — chosen to suit the cloth.
Close to the edge, refined, and judged entirely by hand.
Wherever an edge deserves definition and a frame.
The living rhythm of the hand — never machine-perfect.
MACHINE / AMF
HAND-PICKED · ŠAKAL
ŠAKAL ATELIER | SINGAPORE
Bespoke
FORMAL
2 & 3-Piece Suits
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