Journal entry N° 01
Our Array of Fabrics
A plain-spoken guide to choosing your first suiting cloth, from practical poly blends to fine wool.
If you are tailoring for the first time, a wall of cloth can be daunting. Every bunch promises something different, and the names rarely explain themselves.
This guide to choosing a suit fabric walks through the cloths we keep at ŠAKAL, from everyday poly blends to fine wool, with what each does well and what to watch for in Singapore's climate.
IWhere to begin
The cloth sets the price
At ŠAKAL, our prices are based on what each fabric costs us to source. The cloth you choose shapes the price of your commission, so it is worth understanding before you sit down with the bunches.
We stock poly/wool, cotton, linen, denim, wool, wool/silk, flannel and tweed. Below are the strengths and trade-offs of the fabrics we use most, to help you narrow the field.
IIPoly blends
The practical starting point
Polyester/wool, usually shortened to poly/wool, is the most affordable suiting you can choose. Mills blend synthetic fibres into wool to stabilise the cloth, and tailors around the world often suggest it for a first suit.
It isn't a substandard fabric. It is built for value and easy care rather than comfort in the heat.
In its favour
- Inexpensive
- Resists wrinkles
- Dries quickly
Worth knowing
- Doesn't regulate body heat, so it wears warmer in Singapore's weather
- Less breathable than natural fibres
- Not a sustainable choice
- Can cling to damp skin and irritate sensitive skin
IIINatural fibres
Cotton, linen and denim
These are the fabrics most people already know from everyday clothes, from T-shirts and polos to jeans. At ŠAKAL they are our favourite choices for custom trousers. Cut well, they work in casual and business settings alike.
Linen
We use a great deal of linen, despite its reputation for creasing. We have cut linen suits for formal, semi-formal and casual occasions, and in Singapore it is hard to beat for comfort.
In its favour
- The strongest of all natural fibres
- Breathable and highly absorbent, so it keeps you cool
- Naturally insect-repelling
- Easy to clean
- Organic linen uses natural dyes and has a lower impact than cotton
Worth knowing
- Creases easily
- Must be washed gently, at low temperatures
- Never tumble dry it, as that can cause permanent creasing
- Its relaxed look may not suit the most formal events
Denim
Denim doesn't have to be blue. It comes in many colours, and it is a good option for anyone who wants a cloth with less sheen.
In its favour
- Very durable
- Breathable and absorbent
- Resists wrinkles
- Keeps you cool
Worth knowing
- Dye can bleed
- Sizing can be tricky, which is where tailoring helps most
- Its dyes make it less environmentally friendly
IVWool
The luxury choice
Wool is one of the most luxurious fabrics for suiting. Many clients choose it for their second or third suit, or for a special occasion.
It comes in a wide range of weights and colours. Tailoring enthusiasts often prefer heavier wools for the way they drape.
In its favour
- Natural and renewable
- Naturally high UV protection, well above most synthetics and cotton
- Flame-resistant
- Biodegradable
- Breathable
- Durable
Worth knowing
- Can shrink with heat and moisture
- Needs special care and dry cleaning
- Some weaves feel scratchy against the skin
- Weaker when wet
With fine wool, we usually recommend upgrading to full canvas construction. Together they give the three-dimensional drape that makes a suit look truly made. It is the pairing we suggest for weddings and other milestones, or for anyone who wants a garment that won't date.
VAt a glance
Four fabrics, side by side
| Fabric | In the heat | Creasing | Care | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Poly/wool | Warmer, less breathable | Resists creasing | Easy, dries quickly | A first suit on a budget |
| Linen | Cool and breathable | Creases easily | Gentle, low-temperature wash; no tumble dryer | Relaxed and warm-weather tailoring |
| Denim | Cool and breathable | Resists creasing | Watch for dye bleed | Casual tailoring, especially trousers |
| Wool | Breathable | Recovers well | Dry clean; keep away from heat and moisture | Special occasions and suits to keep |
Swipe to compare →
VIAt the atelier
How we help you choose
Every consultation starts with two questions: how formal is the occasion, and which colours are you drawn to? From there we narrow the bunches down to what you like and what you don't, answer your questions, and recommend cloths and styling to suit.
An intimate, rewarding process: we educate and learn at the same time.
The ŠAKAL Atelier
Every ŠAKAL commission includes at least two structural fittings: a basted fitting and a final collection fitting at our Singapore studio. Browse the mills we work with in our fabric brands guide, or read more about fibres and materials.
VIIQuestions
What clients ask us
What is the best suit fabric for Singapore's weather?
Breathable natural fibres wear coolest. Linen is the classic choice for heat, and wool breathes well too. Poly blends are practical and easy to care for, but they don't regulate body heat as well.
Which fabric should I choose for my first suit?
Poly/wool is the most affordable starting point and resists creasing. If your budget allows, wool in a versatile colour will serve you for longer. We'll help you weigh both at your consultation.
Is linen too casual for formal events?
Linen looks relaxed and creases easily, so it is rarely the first choice for the most formal occasions. For semi-formal and daytime events, a well-cut linen suit works beautifully.
How should I care for a linen suit?
Wash it gently at a low temperature and never tumble dry it, as that can cause permanent creasing. Our care guide covers the rest.
The best way to choose a cloth is with it in your hands. Visit the atelier, feel the weights and weaves, and we'll help you find the one that fits your life.
— Šakal Atelier · Singapore
