Journal entry N° 04
Gurkha Trousers
A high waist, a buckled closure and a soldier's history: why this trouser never needs a belt.
Gurkha trousers tell you their history the moment you put them on. The high waist, the pleats and the buckle at the hip all come from the army.
Here is where the Gurkha trouser came from, what defines it, and why we think it belongs in a modern wardrobe.
IThe origin
How it all started
The Anglo-Nepalese War of 1814 to 1816 was fought between the Gorkha Kingdom, today's Nepal, and the British East India Company. The British were so impressed by the Gorkhali soldiers that they began recruiting them, and called them Gurkhas.
Gurkhas went on to serve as an elite force alongside the British: in the Pindari War of 1817, at Bharatpur in 1826, and in the First and Second Anglo-Sikh Wars of the 1840s. When the British Indian Army was formed, they became part of it.
The Gurkha trouser grew out of that alliance: rooted in British military dress, and adapted for Nepalese soldiers.
If a man says he is not afraid of dying, he is either lying or he is a Gurkha.
Field Marshal Sam Manekshaw
IIThe rise
From khaki twill to tailoring
The British military first issued the trousers in standard khaki twill. Their durability and practicality made them popular in the 1980s, and they became a fashion piece, made in a wide range of cloths for a structured look.
IIIThe design
A waistband that fastens itself
As The Rake describes in its history of the trouser, the long version has a double-pleated front and a high, cummerbund-style waistband that fastens with buckles.
The high waistband
Wide and cummerbund-like, it sits higher than a standard trouser and keeps a shirt tucked in.
The buckle closure
Traditionally a buckle inside the waistband on the left hip, with an extension above the fly that forms a tongue for the right hip. Some modern versions simplify this; others add a buckle on each hip.
The double pleat
Adds room through the hip and draws the eye down the leg. Read more in our guide to pleats.
No belt needed
The adjustable buckles hold the trouser in place, so nothing interrupts the line at the waist.
IVWhy wear them
Practical, and flattering
A Gurkha works like any good trouser, with two side pockets, but its waistband makes it more secure and more distinctive. The high waist keeps a shirt tucked in far better than a standard rise, and it pairs as easily with a T-shirt or polo as with a dress shirt.
It is hardy and comfortable, and it holds its shape better than wool-poly blend trousers. It is as at home on the weekend, at the cinema or travelling as it is running errands, and its classic style doesn't follow trends.
Because the high waist and pleats make the legs the focal point, the Gurkha tends to make the wearer look taller, slimmer and more structured. A pair that fits perfectly is hard to find off the rack, which is where tailoring comes in.
VThe shorts
Gurkha Bermudas
The Gurkha Bermuda shares the trouser's design, cut short. It is just as easy to wear, and with no belt to think about, it makes a versatile choice for Singapore's year-round summer.
VIQuestions
What clients ask us
Do Gurkha trousers need a belt?
No. The buckle closure adjusts the fit at the waist, so there is no need for belt loops. We compare the options in Side Adjuster vs Belt Loop.
What do you wear with Gurkha trousers?
T-shirts, polos and dress shirts all work. The high waist keeps any shirt neatly tucked.
Are Gurkha trousers suitable for the office?
In a smart cloth with a dress shirt, they suit business-casual settings. In khaki twill or linen they lean more relaxed.
How long does a pair take at ŠAKAL?
Six to eight weeks from consultation to collection.
A Gurkha is easiest to understand once you've worn one. Visit the atelier to try the cut and choose your cloth.
— Šakal Atelier · Singapore
