A subtle yet unmistakable
mark of true bespoke tailoring
the surgeon cuff features working sleeve buttonholes.
Hallmark.
A tradition born from 19th-century military surgeons who needed to roll up their sleeves before duty. Unlike the fixed buttons on mass-produced suits, functional cuffs require the sleeve to be finished and cut by hand, making them a subtle declaration of authenticity. Often worn with one button left undone, it quietly signals: this suit was made, not manufactured.
Originally worn by military surgeons and field doctors who needed to roll up their sleeves during operations, the functional cuff — also known as the surgeon cuff — has become a hallmark of bespoke tailoring. A surgeon cuff features working buttonholes on a suit sleeve. Unlike the purely decorative buttons found on ready-to-wear jackets, these can be fully unbuttoned, combining tradition with functionality.
The detail dates back to the 19th century, when military officers requested sleeves that could open for practical use. Today, it serves as a subtle symbol of craftsmanship rather than necessity. Found at the ends of high-end or bespoke jacket sleeves, surgeon cuffs typically feature four buttons, sometimes with the last left intentionally undone to signal authenticity.
Real luxury lies in these details. Each buttonhole is cut and sewn by hand — or crafted with precision only after the sleeve is fully constructed — requiring meticulous placement and alignment. This painstaking step is skipped entirely in mass-produced garments, making the surgeon cuff a quiet but unmistakable mark of true tailoring.
This painstaking step is skipped entirely in mass-produced garments, making the surgeon cuff a quiet but unmistakable mark of true tailoring.
