A subtle yet unmistakable
mark of true bespoke tailoring
Originating in early 20th-century
Milanese tailoring houses
The definitive sign of quality is that the hole is cut first, and then meticulously hand-stitched.
the Milanese buttonhole is hand-stitched using a silk-wrapped gimp cord to create a raised, rope-like finish on the lapel. Originating from the master tailors of Milan, this labour-intensive detail—often taking over 150 stitches for a single teardrop shape—is reserved only for garments made with patience and pride. It serves little functional purpose beyond holding a flower, yet speaks volumes to those who appreciate quiet luxury.
The definitive sign of quality is that the hole is cut first, and then meticulously hand-stitched.
the Milanese buttonhole is hand-stitched using a silk-wrapped gimp cord to create a raised, rope-like finish on the lapel. Originating from the master tailors of Milan, this labour-intensive detail—often taking over 150 stitches for a single teardrop shape—is reserved only for garments made with patience and pride. It serves little functional purpose beyond holding a flower, yet speaks volumes to those who appreciate quiet luxury.
This is the opposite of a standard machine-made buttonhole, which is stitched and then cut. Cutting first leaves absolutely no room for error, requiring the highest level of skill and confidence from the artisan. It possesses a unique robust, raised, and rolled edge, giving it a sculptural, “3D” presence that is impossible to replicate with a machine. This is achieved by first laying down a thick, rigid silk cord called “gimp” around the perimeter of the cut hole.
The smooth, shiny look, which gave it the name Asola Lucida, is the result of using fine silk buttonhole thread that is tightly and consistently wrapped around the gimp, ensuring only the smooth, lustrous silk is visible on the surface. The Milanese buttonhole is the hallmark of master tailors, artisans with years of experience in bespoke construction. Only those deeply versed in traditional hand tailoring possess the skill to execute it flawlessly. Unlike machine-made buttonholes, the Milanese buttonhole is hand-stitched using “gimp” a thick silk cord meticulously wrapped in thread to create a raised, rope-like edge with a subtle sheen. It is typically featured on the lapel rather than on functional sleeve or front buttons.
This is the opposite of a standard machine-made buttonhole, which is stitched and then cut. Cutting first leaves absolutely no room for error, requiring the highest level of skill and confidence from the artisan. It possesses a unique robust, raised, and rolled edge, giving it a sculptural, “3D” presence that is impossible to replicate with a machine. This is achieved by first laying down a thick, rigid silk cord called “gimp” around the perimeter of the cut hole.
The smooth, shiny look, which gave it the name Asola Lucida, is the result of using fine silk buttonhole thread that is tightly and consistently wrapped around the gimp, ensuring only the smooth, lustrous silk is visible on the surface. The Milanese buttonhole is the hallmark of master tailors, artisans with years of experience in bespoke construction. Only those deeply versed in traditional hand tailoring possess the skill to execute it flawlessly. Unlike machine-made buttonholes, the Milanese buttonhole is hand-stitched using “gimp” a thick silk cord meticulously wrapped in thread to create a raised, rope-like edge with a subtle sheen. It is typically featured on the lapel rather than on functional sleeve or front buttons.
Originating in early 20th-century Milanese tailoring houses, this elegant detail became a distinguishing feature among sartorial connoisseurs, particularly from the 1930s onward. Today, it remains one of the most revered hand-finishing touches on bespoke garments.
Found exclusively on the lapels of the most refined suits and jackets, usually at the boutonnière hole, the Milanese buttonhole is a subtle yet unmistakable sign of craftsmanship. Though it serves little functional purpose beyond holding a boutonnière, it signals to those in the know that your suit is not off-the-rack — it is handmade with intent, respect, and pride.
The process demands both precision and patience. Each buttonhole can take up to an hour to complete, a painstaking detail that most makers skip entirely. For us, however, it is non-negotiable.
